Visiting Concettina ai Tre Santi in Rione Sanità, one of the oldest districts of Napoli, is a life changing experience. Ciro Oliva makes the best pizza in Napoli, and perhaps the world. The millennial pizza chef is the son of Antonio Oliva and, therefore, the fourth generation heir of the family.
The Family
The story of “Concettina ai Tre Santi” began in 1951 when Ciro’s great-grandmother, Concettina Flessigno Oliva, was baking fried pizzas in her home for the entire Rione Sanità district. In the 1954 film L’Oro di Napoli, Sofia Loren sold fried pizza from a basso (a street-level room). Concettina Flessigno Oliva had already been doing this three years earlier.
The name of the pizzeria comes from the fact that next to the entrance is the votive shrine of three saints: San Vincenzo Ferreri, patron of health, Sant’Alfonso Maria de’Liguori, protector of the walls of the restaurant, and Sant’Anna the saint to whom Sant’Alfonso was devoted.
Antonio and Ciro, father and son are an unbeatable team. Antonio has always been in charge of the “secret” preparation of the dough. Ciro is the master of ceremonies from pizza making to welcoming guests with his beaming smile. For the both of them, pizza is their daily bread. Antonio preserves the tradition. Undeniably, Ciro is laser-focused on the future.
Only the Best
Ciro meets in person with each of the farmers and suppliers who provide the pizzeria with superior quality products. Cheese, meat, tomatoes, extra virgin oils and biological vegetables are selected among the Slow Food Presidia. The Presidia are Slow Food Communities that work every day to save native livestock breeds, local fruit and vegetable varieties, bread, cheeses, cured meats, sweets, and more.
The Secret to Living is Giving
Above all, Ciro is a generous soul who genuinely cares about fellow Neapolitans in need. He introduced the “pizza sospesa” (the suspended pizza), which is a form of generosity that involves eating one pie and paying for two, leaving the other for a less fortunate stranger. “No one should be denied a pizza,” Oliva says.
In addition, he is involved in Food for Soul, a cultural project founded by Chef Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore to shine the light on the invisible potential of people, places and food. Their mission is to build a culture of value that will strengthen community resilience, open opportunities for social and economic mobility and build healthier and more equitable food systems.
Art For Art’s Sake
The twenty-seven Pulcinella masks which hang in the entrance are by renowned local artist Lello Esposito. The sculptures of Maestro Esposito are symbols of Neapolitan culture.
The Tasting Menu, According to Ciro
Order Ciro’s extraordinary 12-course tasting menu and he’ll serve you himself, with elaborate explanations of each experimental dish. The novelties run the gamut from pizza bagels to butter, salmon and caviar pies. Additionally, “The Memory of Sunday,” is a hodgepodge of tomato, parsley and creamy clam sauce. “No forks or knives required,” Oliva counsels. “Eat with your hands, always.”
The Tasting Menu consists of 12 courses plus small pastries and dessert. Reservation only – min x 4 people.
EAT – Marinara and Margherita are the two classics in the History of Pizza. At Concettina ai Tre Santi these traditional pizzas are legends. In addition, they have played in the kitchen and created variations with anchovies, vegetables, salmon and caviar. They are redefining the art of pizza making. Taste the evolution of pizza!
DRINK – A limited but ambitious wine list represents the Campania region. Taste sparkling and still wines from only small quantity wine producers.
ENJOY!
