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Author: The Smalls

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Enoteca Cortina

Since 1965, Enoteca Cortina has been part of the fabric of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Tucked beneath the town’s iconic campanile, just steps from Corso Italia, this intimate wine bar and enoteca has long been a gathering place for those who appreciate exceptional wine without unnecessary ceremony.

Today, under the direction of sommelier Kristian Casanova, that history has been given fresh energy. The cellar moves comfortably between Italy and the wider world, bringing together celebrated producers, important vintages, and smaller discoveries chosen because they deserve to be poured—not simply because their labels are recognizable.

Wine is unquestionably the reason to come, but what accompanies it is taken seriously. Carefully sourced cheeses and salumi turn a glass into an aperitivo, a light lunch, or an easy early evening meal. The selection includes regional specialties such as Cortina-produced speck and coppa alongside exceptional Italian cured meats and cheeses chosen specifically to complement the wines.

There is nothing overly elaborate about the experience, and that’s precisely its appeal. Enoteca Cortina is small, knowledgeable, convivial, and deeply connected to the town around it. Come for one glass and it’s remarkably easy to find yourself ordering another bottle and staying far longer than planned.

1224 Restaurant Cortina

Named for Cortina d’Ampezzo’s altitude, 1,224 meters, 1224 Restaurant brings an accomplished culinary team and a distinctly contemporary perspective to the heart of Cortina.

Opened in December 2025 inside the Grand Hotel Savoia, 1224 is the new home of patron Michel Oberhammer, Chef Federico Rovacchi, maître Elisa Prudente, and much of the team previously behind Baita Piè Tofana. The address has changed dramatically, but the culinary pedigree runs much deeper.

Before taking the helm at Baita Piè Tofana, Rovacchi spent nearly six years in the kitchen of St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano, working under Norbert Niederkofler during the restaurant’s extraordinary three-Michelin-star era. That experience helped shape his respect for mountain ingredients, seasonality, and sense of place, although Rovacchi has since developed a distinctly personal style that reaches well beyond traditional alpine cooking.

At 1224, the Dolomites provide the foundation rather than the boundary. Local ingredients and wild mountain herbs mingle with exceptional products sourced beyond the region, while French technique and subtle Asian influences bring precision and lightness to the menu.

Vegetables are treated with the same seriousness as meat and fish. Wild herbs, roots, sprouts, and seasonal produce share the spotlight with game, mountain fish, selected meats, and seafood. Charcoal cooking is another recurring thread, adding smoke and depth while allowing the quality of the ingredients to remain central.

The dining room follows the same philosophy. Wood maintains a connection to its alpine roots, while glass, light, and contemporary materials create an atmosphere that feels sophisticated and decidedly current. An ambitious cellar brings together important international labels and smaller artisanal producers.

This is not a restaurant attempting to recreate a mountain hut in the center of Cortina. It is the next chapter for a chef and team who have spent years helping shape the region’s evolving culinary identity.

Ristorante Al Camin

Just outside the center of Cortina on the road toward Passo Tre Croci and Misurina, Ristorante Al Camin is one of those enduring local restaurants that balances refinement with the warmth of a family-run dining room.

Chef Fabio Pompanin’s cooking begins firmly in the Dolomites but refuses to remain confined there. Traditional Ampezzo ingredients and recipes appear alongside seafood, international influences, and more creative combinations, resulting in cuisine that feels rooted in place without becoming predictable.

House-made pasta and ravioli, seasonal soups, baccalà, game, and the restaurant’s longstanding black-rice timbale with shrimp and curry sauce sit comfortably within a menu that moves between mountain tradition and Fabio’s more contemporary instincts.

The setting reflects the same philosophy. Renovated in collaboration with architect Ambra Piccin, Al Camin combines a modern bar inspired by Giò Ponti with a warmer dining room celebrating historic Ampezzo crafts, all created by local artisans. In summer, the raised terrace offers expansive views over Cortina and toward the Tofane.

Fabio is also a sommelier, and the wine program is an important part of the experience. This is the kind of restaurant where asking the chef and team to guide both the food and wine can lead to a far more interesting evening than simply ordering familiar favorites.

Col Druscié Restaurant 1778

At 1,778 meters above Cortina d’Ampezzo, Ristorante Col Druscié 1778 combines traditional mountain cooking with one of the most spectacular panoramas in the Ampezzo Valley.

Reached by the Freccia nel Cielo gondola, the restaurant sits high on Tofana overlooking the World Cup ski slopes, Cortina below, and the surrounding Dolomites. In summer, it makes an easy destination for hikers, cyclists, or anyone who simply wants to ride the gondola up for lunch; in winter, it becomes a natural stop during a day on the mountain.

Inside, the atmosphere is warm and distinctly Ampezzan, with wood interiors that remain simple and elegant rather than overly rustic. Outside, the expansive terrace is the reason to linger on a clear day.

The kitchen stays close to Italian and Ampezzo tradition, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients while also providing thoughtful vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. This is mountain food meant to complement the setting rather than compete with it.

And there is one unexpected detail: immediately beside the restaurant is an astronomical observatory. Special Astrocene evenings combine dinner with the extraordinary experience of exploring the night sky from high above Cortina.

Enoteca Baita

Just steps from Corso Italia, Enoteca Baita Fraina brings the Menardi family’s passion for wine directly into the heart of Cortina.

This is not simply the wine bar attached to Baita Fraina Ristorante. It is a completely separate destination at Largo Poste, with its own personality and a much more casual, social rhythm.

The experience revolves around wine.

An extensive and carefully considered selection spans important Italian labels, international discoveries and special vintages, while a broad selection by the glass makes it easy to explore rather than commit immediately to a bottle.

But this isn’t only somewhere to drink.

Wine is accompanied by gourmet finger food and small bites from the Baita kitchen, with specialties that include raw meat and fish. That combination makes the Enoteca as appealing for an aperitivo as it is for an informal bite when you don’t necessarily want a traditional sit-down meal.

Its central location is part of the appeal. Stop while shopping. Meet friends for aperitivo. Have a glass before dinner. Or arrive intending to stay for one and discover that you’ve been there considerably longer.

It is polished enough to feel special but relaxed enough to become part of your everyday Cortina routine.

Baita Fraina Ristorante

Just a few minutes from the center of Cortina, Baita Fraina Ristorante feels worlds away, tucked into a peaceful mountain setting with views toward the Dolomites.

The Menardi family has deep roots here, with a history of hospitality that began when Baita Fraina was still a farmhouse. Today, that heritage remains an important part of the experience, but the restaurant has evolved into a polished destination for both lunch and dinner.

The kitchen is grounded in simplicity, tradition and quality ingredients, taking familiar flavors of the region and presenting them with a more contemporary perspective. It is refined without becoming overly formal and unmistakably connected to its mountain setting.

Inside, wood-paneled dining rooms create the warmth you want from a Dolomites restaurant. When the weather cooperates, the terrace adds another dimension, with beautiful views toward the surrounding peaks.

Wine is taken seriously here as well. The cellar offers an extensive selection, making Baita Fraina particularly appealing for a long dinner when the bottle is as much a part of the experience as the food.

Despite being only minutes from central Cortina, leaving town changes the mood completely. The bustle disappears, the mountains take over, and dinner begins to feel like a destination rather than simply another reservation.

 

Zelda Cocktail Club

Inside Hotel Ambra, steps from the center of Cortina, Zelda Cocktail Bar brings a decidedly different personality to the town’s traditional alpine landscape.

Intimate, theatrical and a little mischievous, Zelda trades rustic mountain styling for something more glamorous. It’s a place for cocktails, conversation and the transition from dinner into whatever comes next.

The setting makes it particularly appealing for a pre-dinner cocktail or sophisticated nightcap. After a day surrounded by peaks, pine and traditional mountain interiors, Zelda provides a welcome change of mood.

And that’s precisely why we like it.

Cortina isn’t only about skiing, hiking and mountain huts. Part of its enduring appeal is the contrast between extraordinary outdoor adventure and an unexpectedly cosmopolitan social life once you return to town.

Zelda captures that contrast beautifully.

Scuola Sci & Snowboard 2000

The Dolomites become an entirely different experience when you explore them with someone who truly knows the mountains. In Selva di Val Gardena, Scuola Sci & Snowboard 2000 is our go-to resource for private guides, instruction, equipment, and creating personalized days in the mountains.

In winter, private instructors can take you far beyond a conventional ski lesson. Spend the day exploring the Sellaronda, discover the best terrain throughout Dolomiti Superski, improve your technique, or simply let a local expert design the day around the snow, weather, your ability, and what you want to experience. For accomplished skiers, specialized experiences can extend to freeride terrain with qualified professionals.

The convenience is equally valuable. Scuola 2000 combines ski and snowboard instruction, rentals, equipment service, storage, a shop, and ski-pass access, with two locations in the heart of Selva, including one directly by the Ciampinoi gondola.

And when the snow disappears, don’t stop exploring. Summer in Val Gardena is every bit as extraordinary, and spending a day with someone who knows the trails, mountains, and hidden corners of the valley can completely change how you experience it.

For us, that person is Carlos.

Edlweisshütte

High on Alpe di Siusi, Baita Edlweiss is one of those wonderfully unexpected places that makes a summer day in the Dolomites even more memorable. Open only during the summer season, it is one of those experiences that belongs entirely to the warmer months.

Set at 2,045 meters within the Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park, the rustic mountain baita is surrounded by an extraordinary 360-degree panorama of the Dolomites. Hikers and mountain bikers arrive throughout the day, but what makes Edlweiss particularly interesting is that this isn’t simply another traditional mountain hut.

Inside the old barn, you’ll discover a photography exhibition dedicated to the surrounding landscape, turning a casual stop into an unexpected encounter with art in the middle of the mountains. Outside, the terrace and garden invite you to settle in with a drink and simply take in the scenery.

There is a full bar along with snacks, homemade cakes and strudel, and traditional South Tyrolean dishes, but for us, Edlweiss is less about planning a formal mountain lunch and more about the experience of discovering it along the way: a beautiful old barn, compelling photography, a proper drink, and the Dolomites surrounding you in every direction.

Saltos Après Ski Bar

In the heart of Selva di Val Gardena, Saltos is one of those wonderfully uncomplicated mountain bars that works in every season. In winter, it’s a classic après-ski gathering place where ski boots stay on and the afternoon keeps going. Come summer, hikers and mountain bikers replace the ski crowd, turning Saltos into a lively stop after a day exploring the trails of the Dolomites.

Located near the Dantercepies side of Selva and perfectly positioned for those returning from the mountains, Saltos combines the warmth of a traditional alpine bar with live music, DJ sets, dancing, drinks, snacks, and an atmosphere that becomes increasingly social as the day progresses.

This isn’t polished lounge-bar territory, and it doesn’t try to be. Saltos is about the ritual of finishing a great day outside, ordering a drink before returning to the hotel, finding friends, meeting other mountain lovers, and realizing you’re not quite ready for the day to end.

In winter, that means arriving straight from the Sellaronda with your ski boots still buckled. In summer, it might mean walking in after a long hike or rolling up after a day on the bike. Either way, Saltos captures the casual, energetic side of Selva that keeps the village alive long after everyone comes down from the mountain.